Exploring Brisbane - The Flying-by-the-Seat-of-Your-Pants Tour

4/29/2014

Today's "flying-by-the-seat-of-your-pants" tour started off at 9 AM with what I hoped was a somewhat direct walk to one of the CityCat terminals closest to the Kookaburra Inn.  In about 20 minutes I was able to get to the river walk and the Riverside Terminal for about a 10-minute on the mono hull ferry to the South Bank that we visited yesterday. 

I took a few minutes to enjoy the South Bank Parklands, the Rainforest Green, the Nepalese Pagoda, and the Wheel of Brisbane.

Beautiful floral landscape lining the Clem Jones Promenade.

Cityscape viewed from the Clem Jones Promenade at South Bank terminal.

The absolutely stunning Nepalese Pagoda.

A better view of the Wheel of Brisbane.

By the time I visited and revisited all of these landmarks it was almost time for lunch. I was overdue for a major sushi fix so I decided to hear up Melbourne Street in the West End to try out Tsuru Sushi Cafe. This was a new part of Brisbane I hadn't explored yet, but it didn't take me long to realize that this was definitely my neighborhood for Asian eating. There was Korean barbecue, Vietnamese noodle shops, Japanese sushi cafes - I thought I died and went to heaven!

I enjoyed an Asahi draught, some California rolls, some prawn tempura rolls and some teriyaki wagyu beef rolls - all with plenty of wasabi. Everything was absolutely delicious. I would definitely eat there again if I was ever in Brisbane.

Before walking to the West End for lunch, I popped in at the Queensland Performing Arts Centre to see if they might have any available tickets for either the symphony, ballet, theatre or the opera for later today. I lucked out with a ticket for the Lyric Theatre Opera Australia's matinee production of The King & I.  I had an affordable seat in the 4th row of the 2nd level balcony (I'd forgotten how expensive theatre could be since I've been volunteering so I can attend free of charge). The sets were incredible; the acting and singing were fantastic; the acoustics were amazing; and the overall production was awesome! I was so glad I had a chance to enjoy the opportunity. Now I've experienced either opera or theatre in three Australian capital cities: the Sydney Opera House (Turandot); the Victorian Arts Center (Il Trovatore); and Brisbane's Lyric Theatre (The King & I).

One last ride and one last call for XXXX as I hopped on the CityCat and headed to the famous Breakfast Creek Hotel. I tried the XXXX of the wood - brewed in the wood cask - and compare it with my usual draught XXXX. I think I'll stick with the draught - guess I'm not an oaky girl when it comes to both the beer and wine.

The historic Breakfast Creek Hotel.

Back on the CityCat to the Kookaburra Inn to shower and pack for tomorrow's 7 AM departure to the airport for my return flight to Sarasota.  It was a great visit and one that I will cherish along with my other 2 trips Down Under.

Exploring Brisbane - The Organized Tour

4/28/2014

Today I thought I would try a full-day Brisbane tour with Viator - a company I have used in many countries and cities to get an overall sense of the location I am visiting. Sometimes I do the "Hop On, Hop Off" buses with the 24-hour ticket, and today, even though this is a full-day tour, I decided to just go with APS.

The bus came by, about 15 minutes late, to pick me up at the Kookaburra Inn. No problem since they build in lots of buffer before loading all participants at the terminal. I met 2 other Americans, mother and daughter, from the St. Louis, Missouri area, while we were waiting to board our bus. Up until we were preparing to board, the 3 of us were quite hopeful that our group would be the entire traveling contingent, but alas, there were 2 French-speaking women who arrived just as we were preparing to board. 

Brisbane is the 3rd largest city in Australia (behind Sydney and Melbourne), with a population of approximately 2.2 million. Bernard, our travel guide and driver, begins the tour with some background on the original explorers and discoverers who were responsible for naming Brisbane. 

And, our first stop reflects the history of the city and the country as a depository for England's criminals, with The Old Windmill in downtown Brisbane. The Old Windmill is the oldest building in Brisbane and the oldest windmill in Australia. Interestingly, it was built where there was no wind to drive it, so beginning in October 1828 and up until about 1861, the most hardened convicts were given the task of manually grinding the grain from the fields in this windmill and treadmill as punishment for their crimes. They were in leg irons and had to reach above their heads to move the turnstiles that made the blades of the windmill turn. Many died from this physically strenuous task (about the only way they managed to escape this harsh punishment), and the treadmill was in constant need of repair, so in 1861 the windmill was used as a signal station. 

From 1866-1894, a cannon would fire off every day at 1 PM, to assist people with keeping accurate time. The noise, as you might imagine, would be irritating after a time, so from 1894-1950s, the copper ball atop the windmill would drop at precisely 1 PM.

In 1934 the windmill was used to broadcast the first television signals to the area. You cannot go inside the windmill today and the cannon is gone, but it is still very interesting to see.

The Old Windmill in Brisbane.

We continue our tour of the downtown Brisbane area, stopping off at one of the historic buildings bearing plaques of the flood water lines from the most devastating floods: February 1893 (2 record-breaking floods); January 1974 (14,000 homes flooded); and most recently, January 2011 (21 people died and 11,900 homes flooded).

Nearby, we access a 2-way escalator that we've never seen before. Instead of having 2 escalators side by side, going in opposite directions, this one's direction is determined by a person crossing the electronic space at the top or bottom. It stops, then begins to flow either up or down, depending upon where the human breaks the plane. When we came down from photographing the Story Bridge, there was a gal waiting to go up. We got off, the escalator slowed then stopped, the young lady crossed the electronic eye, and up she went. What a money-saving idea!

Next stop - St. John's Anglican Cathedral.

St. John's Anglican Cathedral.

Onto the winding Brisbane River for our River City Cruise along the South Bank - 17 points of interest, including the Victoria Bridge (1968); fish markets; Parliament House (1879); Customs House (1936); Storey Bridge; floating walkway (under construction since 2010); Mowbray Park Baths (1925); New Farm (2011); Tramway Powerhouse (1950); Sugar Refinery (1902); and Newstead House (1950).

We enjoy a specially prepared Devonshire tea while on board - scones with cream, tea and coffee (so delicious and proper) ha ha.

The captain entertains us with stories about the river - the most unbelievable one about the shark that flipped up into the bow of one of the city water taxis. Apparently he slid right down the middle of the taxi - to the astonishment of the commuters on board - and continued on off the stern. Apparently this happened years before video cameras and smart phones were invented to capture the moment, so there's no way to prove or disprove that this really happened.

River scenes: The Storey Bridge (upper left & middle right); 

paddle boat restaurant; city skyline (upper right & lower right); 

and our River City Cruise boat (lower left).

The Breakfast Creek Hotel was one of the highlights of the day tour. Built by William MacNoughton Galloway in 1889 in the French Renaissance style, the hotel is famous for its premium quality steaks and "beer off the wood" (its beers are stored and aged in wooden casks). Galloway resided in the hotel until his fatal fall from a 2nd story window (no doubt he was under the influence of that "beer off the wood"). It is believed that his spirit continues to haunt the hotel.

The hotel boasts 5 unique bars, including a public, private and rum bar; a historic Tropical Beer Garden; and a famous Spanish Garden Steakhouse.

Historic Breakfast Creek Hotel (lower left);
inside the Public Bar (top left, top middle, lower middle);
Private Bar draught taps (upper right); Rum Bar (lower right).

The Wheel of Brisbane with 360 degree panoramic views, located in the heart of Brisbane's cultural, lifestyle and entertainment precinct, was the next stop on our tour. 

The view through our window on the Brisbane Wheel. 

Note the city's tallest building on the right.

The last 2 stops of our tour were the Lone Pine Sanctuary, noted especially for the koalas - whose numbers are drastically lower than they once were and are now a protected species, and Mount Cootha - highest viewpoint of Brisbane, where you can view almost the entire city, the Brisbane River and some of the outlying suburban areas.

The Koalas dining, playing, fighting.

Tasmanian Devil (upper right); Kookaburra (center); Olive Python (upper right);

Wombats (bottom left and right).

Dingos (upper left); kangaroos at rest & eating; emu (bottom right).

The kangaroo and emu open fields were very interesting. You could get up close and personal but picking your way across the grass was a very challenging matter of trying to avoid stepping on any animal dung. I had to laugh watching everyone scrape the bottom of their shoes on the mat provided after leaving the enclosure. And you've got to admire the little ones who just ran back and forth across the grass - amazingly some barefoot - who couldn't care less about what they were stepping in!

The panoramic view of Brisbane from Mount Cootha.

Coloundra to Brisbane

4/27/2014

After lunch, a sad and teary goodbye to Loretta and Graeme before Paul, who is heading to Brisbane as well, drives us to the capital city. He drops me off at the Kookaburra Inn, a B & B in the Spring Hill suburb of Brisbane, before he drives on further into the city to the hotel where he is staying overnight before going on further south.

The Inn is very simple and basic - similar to many hostels and backpackers inns I have stayed in during my earlier travels. Wendy, the proprietor, is very helpful - checking on the day tour operator I plan to use tomorrow morning for my day tour of Brisbane - and showing me the shared kitchen, TV room, outdoor areas and available rooms. I review the neighborhood map with her, brew a cuppa and head back to my room to catch up on my blog while relaxing. Tomorrow I slip back into my tourist mode and enjoy the city before heading back home on Wednesday.

Hervey Bay to Coloundra

4/26/2014

Returning to Graeme and Loretta's in Coloundra after breakfast at Paul's this morning. Pretty easy 2.5 hour drive. Getting ready to spend my last evening with my dear friends who have so graciously hosted me, driven me over 500 miles, fed me incredible meals and shared their home and love with me during this return trip. I have been tasked with returning the favor next year as they consider a return trip to the States, specifically New Orleans, Nashville, Memphis and Atlanta.

Our final dinner is a fantastic Thai meal at their neighborhood Thai restaurant, Bangkok by Night. We share massamum beef, panang chicken and pad thai w/prawns. There is an incredibly reasonable corkage fee of only $2 for the wine and beer that we bring with us. (Why we charge upwards of $15 in the States is beyond me). If this restaurant was in my neighborhood in Florida, I would be eating here at least once a week.

Before we leave the restaurant, I copy the saying on the nearby chalkboard (attributed to the Dalai Lama, but paraphrased however slightly by the owner's son):

"The source of all misery in the world lies in thinking of oneself;
The source of all happiness lies in thinking of good food."

I could not have said it better myself!

Maryborough to Hervey Bay

4/25/2014

On the road again for a short ride to Hervey Bay after breakfast with Kevin and Cheryl. We were meeting Paul Kelsey, Graeme & Loretta's good friend and adopted son. Both Paul and Loretta work in the same industry - managing shopping centers - so when we caught up with Paul at his brand new shopping center office, we were given the grand tour of the facilities. I must admit I never gave much thought to that sort of job and I certainly learned quite a bit while we checked out Paul's office. Graeme and I were particularly impressed with the decadent bathroom, which had a push-button sliding door that slid back to reveal a full shower, space-age toilet and other accouterments that easily surpassed anything I've ever seen, even in private homes.

After we dropped our luggage at Paul's home for our overnight, we headed out to the Hervey Bay Boat Club and the Riverheads pier to see the ferry launch area for Fraser Island.

Goofing off while taking some photos near the ferry launch to Fraser Island.
Graeme, Paul, Loretta and Barb.

And, continuing our incredible gluttony tour, we had lunch at the Hervey Bay Boat Club (very similar to the Coloundra RSL minus Neil Diamond) ha ha! I had the salt & pepper squid - absolutely delicious - with veges and an enormous amount of fries that seemed to multiply as quickly as I ate them. Loretta had scallops Mournay that were wonderful as well. 

The Whaling ship docked at the Hervey Bay Tourist Terminal.

Great Sandy Straits Marina.

After our sumptuous lunch, we walked around the marina, checking out the whaling boat (not the season for whale watching at the moment, but humpbacks are the breed in these waters). Then we hopped into Paul's car to explore the coastline, parks and houses in the area. 

There was one house in particular - painted bright yellow and labeled, "Asbestos Manor" - with a hilarious back story. (sorry I didn't think to take a photo, but here's the actually listing with its "glorious jaundiced beach views" and "sulphuric verandah" for a mere $5 million):

http://www.spentmemory.com/2012/02/for-sale-landmark-residence-in.html

Pretty soon it was actually time to eat - AGAIN! But I noticed that none of us were complaining about it too loudly. I cannot believe how much I ate during this visit, but it was definitely an eating and drinking extravaganza the entire 2 weeks! In other words, it was AWESOME!!!!

Dinner was alfresco at Cafe Balaena, alongside the water of the Great Sandy Straits Marina. Loretta and Paul had a gigantic bowl of seafood chowder and Graeme and I had the black orchid garlic prawns. All entrees were amazing. Somehow, some way, we all left room for the impressive lemon meringue tart (should have taken a photo of the giant individual slices) and the citrus coconut tart enjoyed by Loretta. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had forgotten how incredible Aussie desserts could be. No wonder I gained so much weight when I was living here in 1975-77.

Back to Paul's to relax and crash for the evening after watching some hilarious Wanda Sykes clips on YouTube.

Coloundra to Maryborough

4/24/2014

On the road for an overnight stay in Queensland's historic Maryborough - home to Kevin & Cheryl Connors. 

Cheryl was our first baseman, I played shortstop and Loretta coached/managed our Toowoomba softball team in 1976-77. I had not seen Cheryl for about 39 years so I was thrilled that Loretta built time into our itinerary so we could catch up, especially since the highlight of my 2 years spent teaching in Clifton was definitely driving to Toowoomba every Saturday to play in one game, coach a junior team in another, and umpire a third. Those were the days...

 So many choices - so little time!

Cheers!
Shortstop Barb (62); 1st Baseman Cheryl (67); and coach/manager Loretta (69).
Looking mighty fine 39 years later.

We spent most of the day reminiscing, eating and drinking lots of wine, beer and champagne. Dinner was freshwater fish and red claw caught by Kevin earlier in the day + lots of vegetables, and, as an unexpected surprise, specifically from Cheryl to me, golden syrup. 

To understand and appreciate the syrup you needed to go back to 1975 when I planned to make my Aussie flatmate, Zeita, American pancakes for breakfast. I had everything but the syrup so I walked to Mr. Frahm's general store to buy some - only to find that Mr. Frahm not only had no syrup but that he had no idea what it was. How to explain???

So I told Mr. Frahm that it was a liquid thinner and sweeter than molasses with maple flavoring, and that the most popular brand, Log Cabin, was a clear plastic bottle with a red label bearing a log cabin. He suggested treacle as a replacement (the stuff is absolutely dreadful), but I knew that wouldn't work, so the real American pancakes didn't happen that day.

Several weeks later, Kaye Frahm (daughter) caught me at the school and mentioned that her dad wanted me to stop by the store after school, so I headed down later that afternoon to see what was up. When I passed by the front window I just cracked up when there, front and center, was a pyramid of Log Cabin syrup! And that wasn't the only display of syrup. Since Mr. Frahm wasn't quite sure what function the syrup might serve, he had multiple displays throughout the store! I wonder if anyone besides myself had purchased a bottle - I hope so because I would have felt very badly if he ended throwing out all those bottles once they reached their expiration date. 

Exploring the Hinterlands & Neil Diamond

4/23/2014

We continued our eating and drinking adventures as our travels today focused on exploring the Hinterlands of Queensland, with our first stop being the Maleny Dairy. After a good laugh about the name of the port they were selling (see photo collage below - only in Australia), we sampled the many delicious cheese and yogurt samples they had on the main counter before purchasing some apple/cinnamon and passion fruit Greek yogurt and a couple of the herbed feta cheeses.

The Maleny Dairy factory and shoppe.

On to our picnic spot with a beautiful view of the Glass House Mountains, where we enjoyed wraps, the other half of the lamingtons (which Graeme absolutely forbade me to eat at breakfast earlier that day), and some lemonade. 

The Glass House Mountains in Queensland.

Following lunch we continued our adventures with a visit to the Budrim Ginger Factory at Yandina, where there is a dizzying array of ginger plants from all over the world; multiple play areas & a little train for the children; an incredible shop with ginger everything; and a little dining area, where we enjoyed an ice cream cone after exploring the factory.

The Budrim Ginger Factory at Yandina.

Our last activity for the day was the Neil Diamond faux concert and a dinner at the Coloundra RSL (Returned Servicemen's League). What a hoot! I think the closest American equivalent would be dinner theater. There was a choice of 4 restaurants in this facility, lots of long tables for dining, a small stage and dance floor, and always in Australia - slot machines. 

Loretta and I enjoyed beef cheeks (tenderloins) with mashed potatoes and green beans, and Graeme, who've I discovered favors Moroccan and Indian cuisines, tried the lamb patties. While we started eating, the man referred to as Neil Diamond came onto the stage and started working through Neil's hits. (As you can see from the photos it was a stretch to envision him as Neil - the only thing they had in common was the gold lame~ shirt. This guy could have used a dark wig and some dark chest hair). But it was great fun and we enjoyed dancing to many of the hits.  I even tried my hand at the slots, and as usual, it was a loss.  I have been on such a dry spell of late.  But again, good fun.

Neil Diamond concert at the Coloundra RSL. 

Another dress???